10 INCH PNEUMATIC WHEELS

Denver Wheel Boot Lock - Heavy Duty

For Parking Enforcement, Lawn Tractors, Police/Law Enforcement, Golf Carts Boat Trailers

The Heavy Duty Wheel lock will foil the plans of thieves and vandals. Shown here attached to a wheel making it impossible to easily steal your equipment and ruin your day.This wheel works on everything from utility vehicles and trailers to cars and pick up trucks.

Prevent the theft of your mower, compressor, John Deere Gator, tractor, golf cart, ATV, motorcycle, trailers or any other wheeled equipment that is prone to be stolen. Very similar in looks and application to the famous Denver Boot, which is used by cities to lock the cars of parking ticket scofflaws.

The Heavy Duty Wheel lock is adjustable in width and comes with keys. Stop the thieves from moving your equipment from where you parked it and send them somewhere else to do their misdeeds!

This is also an excellent tool to prevent parking in unassigned areas at your office, apartment complex, school, etc.

3/8" = 1' Cessna 310. Panel lines engraved with wood burner before painting. Painted with Testors enamels. Wing number masked using frisket film (number printed on film using ink jet printer, cut out and applied to model, then final color painted). Smaller markings are homemade water slide decals using Micro-Mark decal paper. Landing Gear struts from brazing rod with styrene detail added. Wheels from laminated styrene disks: cut out and laminate plastic disks to desired thickness, drill hole in center to insert wooden peg, chuck peg in rotary tool and shape using sanding sticks, files. Gear doors from styrene sheet. Propellers from styrene. Label on stand made in MS Word: cover print with clear packing tape and back with double sided tape, trim with scissors and apply sticker to base.
Panel lines were made using this procedure: after the model was sealed using varnish and primed using rattle can primer I added panel lines using a wood burner with a knife blade attachment; a popsickle stick and piece of leather from an old belt were used as straight edges. This process leaves a raised furrow which can be eliminated using a Scotch Brite pad followed by rubbing down with extra fine steel wool (use the finest grade obtainable; the coarser stuff leaves scratches). Next, whisk off the model using a house painting brush to clean the sanding debris out of the panel lines. The result is a finely engraved panel line on the model surface.

After the model was painted, I highlighted the panel lines by applying Kiwi liquid shoe polish (the stuff that comes in the plastic bottles with the foam pad dispenser on top). The polish comes in several colors which can be mixed to produce suitable grungy color- dispense some of the polish into a container and apply to the model using a fine paint brush or mapping pen nib. The excess polish was wiped off the model using a rag dampened with water.

I've had good luck using Micro-Mark decal paper to make water slide decals. First create the marking using MS Word's Word Art feature then print on standard paper. Cut a rectangle shape around the marking using a hobby knife and straight edge. Use the cutout as a template to cut out a piece of decal paper the same size as the hole. Place the cut out piece of decal paper face down in the hole made earlier and secure with cellophane tape. The decal paper will be flush with the paper surface (this will minimize ink smuding). Next run the paper through the printer again; the marking will now be printed on the decal paper piece. If using an inkjet printer, allow plenty of time for the ink to dry then seal using a clear overspray (I prefer Deft spray varnish). The number decal still on the paper made using this method appears on the parts photo.

The wheels were made by laminating thick plastic sheet-- use a circle template to draw the wheels on the sheet then cut out using straight cuts, clean up with a file; make enough disks to create the thickness of one wheel. Apply glue and clamp. Next drill a hole to accomodate a peg made from a bamboo skewer. The hole should fit the peg snugly; do not glue. Chuck the peg in a rotary tool and shape using files and sanding sticks; hub detail was gouged in using a knife blade as the wheel was turning. When one side is complete, pull the wheel off the peg and flip over to shape the opposite side. When done fill the hole with plastic scrap and drill a new smaller hole to accomodate the brazing rod axle. Wood can be used instead of plastic; plastic tends to melt if the RPM is too high.

The landing gear doors were cut from plastic sheet (from old For Sale signs). I sprayed oven cleaner on the printed side of the sign, then scrubbed off the unwanted lettering. Pegs (flattened where they attach to the door) made from Evergreen plastic rod fit in holes drilled in the model underside. On the model, "wheel wells" are indicated by black painted rectangles.

The propellers are carved from thick plastic sheet; shaped using files, sanding sticks and scraping with a single edged razor blade then smoothened using fine steel wool. The cuffs are sliced sections of Evergreen plastic tubing. The propellers were then painted gloss white and polished using SNJ aluminum powder for a metallic look. The blades were then sealed using future floor polish. Pins from brass rod secure the blades to the spinners.

The large registration numbers on the wings were masked using frisket film from an art supply store. The numbers were created in MS Word (using the Word Art feature) and first printed on standard paper then cutout as described above for making decals. I lightly sanded the frisket film before running it through the inkjet printer since the ink tends to bead up on the film surface. When dry, the masks were cutout and attached to the model. To line up the numbers on the model, I first applied a masking tape strip which had tick marks for each numeral. The frisket film numbers were then lined up on the tape stri

Bragg's Mill was built in 1757 by William Haylock, a carpenter of Ashdon. In 1813, the mill was advertised for sale, then having two pairs of millstones. At this time it was still an open trestle mill. The mill was extended at the tail c1815. A roundhouse was added circa 1820. The mill was working until c1912. By 1932 the mill was being propped up from beneath, as the side girt on the left side of the mill had failed. The mill was renovated in the late 1950s, but was derelict again by 1974, when further repairs were carried out. The sails were removed in the 1990s.

Restoration
A meeting of the villagers in April 1999 agreed that the windmill should be restored and that included the sails being fitted. The Ashdon Windmill Trust Ltd was formed and registered as a charity. Planning permission and listed building permission were obtained. In 2000, the mill was gifted to Ashdon village by the Thurlow Estate, who owned it, with the promise of a ?25,000 donation once the Trust had raised ?25,000 itself. The Essex Environment Trust gave a grant of ?40,000 in 2001. Restoration of the mill started in March 2002. Vincent Pargeter was engaged to do the restoration. The frame of the mill was straightened, and the mill completely reclad in new weatherboards.[5] By 2004 the mill was resplendent in a new coat of white paint. In July 2004, a grant of ?46,900 was received from the Heritage Lottery Fund. New sails were fitted on 5 July 2006.

Description
For an explanation of the various pieces of machinery, see Mill machinery.
Bragg's Mill is a post mill with a single storey roundhouse. It has four Patent sails carried on a wooden Windshaft with a cast iron poll end. Two sails are double shuttered and two are single shuttered. Two pairs of millstones are driven, arranged Head and Tail. The mill is winded by tailpole. The mill is 34 feet (10.36 m) high to the roof.

Trestle and roundhouse
Before the recent restoration, the lower crosstree had been clamped at a quarterbar joint. The crosstrees stand within 3 feet 4 inches (1.02 m) of ground level. The brick piers that the crosstrees rest on had been tarred, and the crosstrees themselve painted white, evidence that the mill was built as an open trestle mill. Both crosstrees are of oak, the upper being 24 feet (7.32 m) long and 13 inches (330 mm) by 12 inches (305 mm) in section, whilst the lower crosstree is 12 inches (305 mm) by 11? inches (293 mm) at the ends, thickening to 13? inches (343mm) at the centre. The post is 17 feet 6 inches (5.33 m) long, and 27 inches (686 mm) square at its base.

Body
The body of the mill measures 19 feet 10 inches (6.05 m) by 11 feet (3.35 m) in plan. At some point, the body of the mill had been extended at the back to provide room for a bolter. It was originally only 16 feet 6 inches (5.03 m) long. The Crown Tree is 20 inches (508 mm)square at the ends, thickening to 20 inches (508 mm) by 23 inches (584 mm) at the centre.The side girts are 6 inches (152 mm) by 17 inches (432 mm) in section.

Sails and Windshaft
The windshaft is of wood with a cast iron poll end, probably fitted at the same time that the Patent sails were added. The mill would originally have been built with Common sails.

Machinery
The clasp arm wooden Head Wheel was converted from Compass arm construction, it is 7 feet 4 inches (2.24 m) diameter. The wooden Tail Wheel has also been similarly converted, it is 6 feet 4 inches (1.93 m) diameter. The mill was originally built with a single pair of millstones, the second pair probably being added when the mill was extended at the rear.

Millers
Josiah Giblin 1809 - 1819
John Ruse 1830
John Brown 1848
Frederick and John Ruse 1850
John Bragg 1898
William Bragg 1894 - 1912

Bragg's Mill in its last working years was described in the book Five Miles from Bunkum.

Public access
The mill is open to the public on the second Sunday of each month, starting in April each year.

from Wikipedia

KC HiLiTES 26 Series lights are available as individual lights as well as complete systems. The kits come with two 2" x 6" rectangular ABS housing lights, three sets of unbreakable Lexan lenses, a choice of two amber fog lights, clear fog lights, or clear driving lights, 55w H-3 halogen bulbs (12 volts, 4. 2 amps each), a pre-terminated wiring harness with 40 amp relay, and illuminated KC switch. Also included are two KC light covers. An illustrated instruction manual makes installation easy. The kit comes with a 23-year warranty.